Regular Service and Preventative Maintenance are the two most important things an owner can do to make their power equipment work properly, safely and last a long time. While this is not intended to be the "last word" in lawnmower service, it provides a general guide for the most common service items on Quick mowers.

Quicks are designed to be easily-maintained with common hand tools by folks of average mechanical ability. If you're the kind of person that doesn't need to hire a plumber to fix a drippy faucet, you won't find anything "scary" about servicing or repairing our mowers. We believe that with the tips provided here, you'll find that working on your Quick will be about as easy as mowing with it.

Before you start, please read our important safety reminders.

• Initial Set-Up
• Cleaning
• Caster Fork Service
• Oil and Filter Change
• Air Filter Service
• Fuel System
• Battery Maintenance
• Greasing
• Adjusting the Height of Cut
• Blade Sharpening
• Clutch/Brake Service
• Safety Systems
• Belt Changes
• Cable Adjustments
• Spindle Replacement
• Tire Service
• Maintenance-Free Transaxle
• Off-Season Storage
• Pre Season Start-up
• Important Safety Reminders

• Single Drive
• Dual Drive

Setting up your new mower only takes a few minutes. You will need:

• Box knife
• Pry Bar
• Wire-cutter pliers
• 9/16" box end wrench
• 1/2" box-end wrench
• Fresh gasoline

Using the pry-bar, remove the top boards and corner posts from the crate. With the box knife, carefully remove the cardboard top and sides.



Remove and dispose of the plastic shipping bag safely away from children and pets.

Using the wire-cutter pliers, cut the four heavy zip-ties that hold the mower to the pallet.



Using the 9/16" box end wrench, remove the four handlebar-mounting bolts, washers and lock washers (two on each side) from the gas tank mounting stand. Rotate the handlebars into their approximate normal operating position. You have two mounting positions from which to choose. Reinstall the four bolts, washers and lock washers and tighten with the 9/16" wrench. Remove the rest of the protective shipping material from the dash, automatic brake handle, etc. Locate the hydro pump control lever on the back of the frame and slide it to the "Easy Roll Around" position. Depress the red lever (on the LH handlebar) to release the automatic brake and roll the mower off the pallet.



On electric start mowers only, unwrap the protective electrical tape from the battery ground cable (big black one) and the wiring harness ground (small green wire) and attach them to the engine mounting stud at the base of the engine. Using a 1/2" box end wrench, secure the wires to the stud using the KEPS lock nut that came in the bag with your Owner's Manual.

READ THE OWNER'S MANUAL FROM COVER TO COVER!

Roll the mower outside, add fuel and follow the starting procedures shown on the dashboard decal.

Note: The Kawasaki engines have a separate choke control. For cold-starting, pull out the choke knob while cranking the engine. When the engine fires, push the knob in fully.


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Keeping your mower clean does more than just make it look nicer. Routinely cleaning it exposes problems before they get bigger, it removes potential fire hazards, it ensures that all instructional and safety warning decals remain readable and it makes your mower easier (and more enjoyable) to service and operate. Clean equipment also presents a favorable impression of your business.

Using a garden hose with a bucketful of hot, soapy water and a sponge or rag is the best way to wash. A toilet bowl brush can be handy for getting into the tight spots. We're not big fans of the "Purple Cleaners" as they contain harsh acids that can ruin your paint and prompt corrosion.

Scrub the mower thoroughly, including under the belt guard and underneath the cutting deck. Rinse off the suds, mud and dead grass with a garden hose nozzle. If you have one, using a backpack blower is an ideal way to get water out of crevices and keep it from laying around bearings and in other sensitive areas. Avoid pouring or spraying water directly onto the engine.

I know it's popular thing to do, but… Better Outdoor highly discourages the use of commercial pressure washers for cleaning equipment. Pressure washers can push moisture and dirt into bearings, the fuel system, electrical connections and other sensitive areas of your mower, promoting rust, corrosion and lubricant and fuel contamination. I know they're fast, but they're also a quick way to ruin a good machine.

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Doing this will ensure that your caster forks remain easily removed for quick height of cut changes.

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The correct amount of fresh oil is probably the single biggest factor in engine life. Changing your oil on a regularly scheduled basis is cheap and effective insurance for your engine's well being.

A word about oil:

Air-cooled engines run much hotter than do water-cooled engines (the kind used in cars and trucks). This results in two things; since air-cooled engines have a greater overall operating temperature range, they're built "looser" from the factory (wider clearances) which tends to make them consume oil even when they're new. Keeping a close watch on the oil level of your air-cooled engine is very important. Secondly, the higher overall operating temperature tends to cause the oil to breakdown more quickly, causing it to lose its viscosity (ability to cling to the surfaces being lubricated). It's highly recommended that you use a good quality "straight" 30W oil in air-cooled engines. Unless you're running synthetic, don't use multi-viscosity oils such as 10W30 because they will leave it inadequately protected resulting in increased oil consumption and more rapid wear of the internal components.





If you're a pro landscaper, your schedule is full during the season. For this reason, we made it easy to change the oil with an extended drain to the rear of the mower.
Start the engine and bring it up to operating temperature then shut it off and put the key in your pocket.
Position a drain pan under the end of the oil drain hose. Using a 13/16" wrench, hold the big fitting on the end of the oil drain hose and then remove the plug with a 7/16" open-end wrench.

While the old oil is draining from the engine, using a small oil-filter wrench, turn the filter counter-clockwise removing it from the front of the engine (filters are mounted on the front for both Briggs and Kawasaki). You may want to put a rag under the filter to catch any spilled oil. After the old filter has been removed, thoroughly wipe clean the filter base on the engine with a clean rag.



Using your (clean) finger, coat the rubber gasket of the new filter with a thin film of wheel bearing grease (this allows the gasket to slide easily on the filter base so that it tightens properly and seals). Reinstall the plug into the oil drain hose and tighten securely.

Using a clean funnel, add fresh 30W oil to your engine. All Briggs-powered Quicks require approximately 1-3/4 U.S. quarts. All Kawasaki-powered Quicks require approximately 1.8 U.S. quarts. Reinstall the dipstick. Start the machine for two minutes to check for leaks and to let the oil circulate and then turn off the engine. Remove the dipstick and check the final oil level and add if necessary. Be careful not to overfill as this will cause the engine to smoke when the mower is operated on steep hillsides.

Note: Add new oil to the Kawasaki engines very slowly as they tend to "glug" the oil out (and make a huge mess!).

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Quicks have air filters where they're easy to service (in the front on Briggs-powered mowers, RH-side on Kawasaki-powered mowers). Removing them doesn't even require tools.

Once the filter element and foam precleaner are removed from the housing, carefully clean all dirt and debris from the inside of the filter cover and the air-filter box. Be especially careful to not get any dirt into the inlet neck (the big hole that runs from the air cleaner box to the carburetor). If debris enters the inlet neck, do your best to clean it out before going any further.

Once the air filter box is clean, inspect it for signs of leakage. If dirt leakage is suspected, cover the area with clear silicone sealer available at most auto parts stores and allow it to dry thoroughly.

Much like a vacuum sweeper bag, engine air filters have a lifespan. Depending on the amount of dust in your operating conditions, filters should be watched closely for dust saturation. Paper filter elements should be tapped gently to remove dirt and grass built-up on the surface. If the filter still looks dirty, replace it with a new one. Filters should not be "blown-out" with compressed air as this only further embeds the dust particles deeper into the filter paper and does little to clean it. Filters should be replaced after a maximum of 200 hours usage; more often in dusty conditions.



Quick engines are all equipped with a foam precleaner. The precleaner stops a high percentage of the larger particulates in the air stream and they can be washed with hot soapy water. Do not wring the foam precleaner dry, but instead fold it into a clean towel and press it dry. Allowing the precleaner to completely air dry before reinstallation is recommended.

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Dirt in the fuel accumulates to block the main jet in the carburetor resulting in a host of bad behavior ranging from hard starting to low power. Dirt can also accumulate in the needle valve and seat causing it not to seal. Much like a leaky toilet, a dirty needle valve constantly floods the engine with too much fuel, causing it to run rich, foul the spark plug, start poorly, smoke, etc.

Do yourself a HUGE favor and buy good quality gas cans, buy gas at reputable stations, don't leave your gas cans in the rain and don't carry fuel over from one season to the next. Keep the spouts covered when they're not in use. If you use a funnel, keep it clean.









All Quick mowers are equipped with a disposable inline fuel filter. We recommend changing them yearly. Most filters have a flow-direction marked on the case with an arrow. You'll need a gravity flow filter designed to accept ¼" hose.

Quick mowers also feature a ¼ turn fuel tank shut-off valve as standard equipment. It's located up under the gas tank stand on the LH side. We recommend turning this to the off position whenever you're transporting the mower or putting it into storage.

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You'll want to check all the cells to make sure they're full. Top-off any low cells to the full mark on the side of the battery with DISTILLED WATER and replace the caps. Store the battery someplace where it won't be subjected to freezing temperatures and do not set it on a concrete floor (this will kill a battery!).

To keep it electrically active during the Winter months, you may want to connect a battery tender (a low amperage charger). These are popular for motorcycle batteries that often sit for months during the off-season.

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The ball bearings in the front caster wheels should be greased with 4-5 pumps every 50. The grease zerk is in the wheel hub and can be accessed from the side. You may have to rotate the wheel slightly to find it.

The three idler pivot points (2 on the deck and 1 on the transaxle drive) each have a zerk in the idler arm hub. One pump of grease every 50 hours is plenty. Make sure to wipe off any excess grease that is expelled so that it doesn't get on the drive belts.

The three blade spindles are the most critical grease point on your mower. Give each one 4-5 pumps of grease every 25 hours of operation. Do not over-grease the spindles however as this will make them run hot, lead to bearing "skating" and generally do more harm that good.

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No Spacer: 1.0"
1 Spacer : 1.5"
2 Spacers: 2.0"
3 Spacers: 2.5"
4 Spacers: 3.0"
5 Spacers: 3.5"
6 Spacers: 4.0"

Once the front of the deck is set at the desired height, the rear should be set to match.

The rear adjusters have an arrow that points to a height of cut chart on the frame of the machine. Using a ¾" socket wrench, loosen the nut one full turn (one on each side) of the rear adjusters and then slide the deck up or down. Align the pointer with the number on the chart that corresponds to the number of spacers under the caster forks.

For example; if you're running four spacers under the forks, align the pointer with the "4" on the chart.

Once the deck is in the desired position, retighten the adjuster locknuts.

Many folks believe that mowers leave a prettier quality of cut in certain types of grass if the deck is "pitched", meaning slightly higher in the back. With Quick mowers, you have the option of setting your deck in this manner. Simply set the rear adjuster pointer so that it's aligned midway between the height of cut positions.

For example; if you're running three spacers under the forks, align the pointer halfway between the "3" and the "4" on the chart.

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It is imperative that the blades ALWAYS be installed with the thick washer next to the blade, using functional lock washers and a MINIMUM bolt quality of Grade 5.



If the blades have knicks or dings, they will need to be removed for proper grinding.

Lay the blade "wings-up" on a suitable work surface. Using a 4" angle grinder with a medium grit flexible carborundum grinding disc, lightly grind the cutting edge of the blade being careful to follow the original ground angle. Hold the disc such that it's rotating away from the cutting edge. Again, take it slow and remove as little material as possible to produce a sharp edge.

After you're finished sharpening the blades, they should be re-balanced. This can be easily and inexpensively accomplished with a nail and a little time. Drive a nail in the wall and balance the blade on it such that it's not touching the wall. If the blade falls to one side, (using the grinder) remove a small amount of material from the "heavy side". Continue this process until the blade will sit balanced on the nail.

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Turn the mower OFF and put the key in your pocket. Remove the mower deck belt cover.

With a friend operating the mower deck engagement control lever between ON and OFF, spray a 2-3 second blast of light lubricant such as Fluid Film in through the "window" in the side of the clutch housing (where the cable connects). Aim the spray toward the center hub.

Start the mower and cycle the blades on and off a few times to check for smooth engagement and disengagement.

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Quick mowers are equipped with two electrical-system safety circuits. The first system requires the mower to be in neutral before it will start. The second system requires an operator to be in position before either the deck or the wheels will function.

Neutral Start





The neutral start system is comprised of two switches in series. Electrical current will not pass from the key switch to the starter solenoid unless the mower deck engagement control is in the OFF position AND the hydrostatic drive control is in neutral. The automatic brake control does not have to be depressed to engage the starter.

Operator Presence



The operator presence system is designed to let the mower "know" that someone is in the operator's position. It is comprised of three switches in series. Unless the red operator presence handle (on the LH handlebar) is depressed, the engine's magneto will be grounded (engine will not run) if either the mower deck is engaged or the hydrostatic wheel drive is engaged.

The red handle on the LH handlebar serves two functions. It serves as an Operator Presence sensor and it also disengages the automatic braking system. When the lever is in the "UP" (released) position, the mower's brakes are automatically spring applied. When the operator presses down on the lever, the braking system is released.

All Quick mowers are equipped with either a Noram SoftStart™ or Extreme-Duty™ clutch/ brake. The purpose of the clutch/brake is to not only serve as an excellent drive system for the blades, it also brakes the blades to a quick stop when the engagement lever is released to the OFF position. The clutch/brake should be tested periodically to see if it stops the blades in 3-4 seconds after release. If it does not, the clutch/brake needs to be replaced immediately.



Every mower we build comes with a cover over the mowing deck drive system and also a fold-up discharge chute.

The belt cover protects the deck drive system and reduces debris build-up on top of the deck. But more importantly, the cover protects people from all the rotating components underneath. The belt cover plays a vital role in reducing serious physical injury and we encourage you to leave it in place on your mower.

Unless you're using your mower with either a grass catcher or a mulching baffle kit, the discharge chute MUST be installed and functional. Discharge chutes are installed to help protect bystanders and property from objects that may be thrown by your mower. They are essential.

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Loosen one of the front strut rods and swing it to the side and then remove the belt guard.



Using your hand, take hold of the upper idler pulley and rotate it to the side, releasing tension on the primary deck drive belt (the one from the clutch/brake to the center spindle). Using your fingers, roll the belt up and out of the upper pulley groove (the center spindle).

To install a new upper drive belt, first wrap the new belt around the pulley on the clutch/brake making sure it's seated in the groove. Rock the idler pulley to the side and route the belt around it and then into the spindle pulley groove. Rotate the center spindle pulley clockwise and the belt should pop into the groove. Once installed, make sure the "V" side of the belt is seated into the clutch and spindle pulley grooves and that the "flat" side of the belt is against the idler as shown in the pictures.

Although it can be done by hand (if you have super-strong fingers) the lower deck belt is replaced more easily using a 9/16" socket wrench for leverage. Remove the strut, belt guard and upper drive belt as described above.



Install the socket wrench onto the idler pulley center bolt and use it to rotate the idler, releasing tension on the lower belt. Roll the belt off the idler pulley which will provide sufficient slack to remove it from the other pulleys.

Using the belt routing guide decal on the top of the deck as a reference, wrap the belt around the "chute side" spindle pulley first, then around the backside of the idler pulley and finally around the (lower) center spindle pulley. Once the belt is roughly in place, reinstall the 9/16" socket wrench to the idler pulley bolt and rotate it to create slack in the drive. Using your fingers, roll the belt into the back of the pulley groove (the trim-side spindle) and then rotate the pulley clockwise. The belt should pop into the pulley groove. Release tension on the idler pulley and then check the routing of the belt. Make sure the "V" side of the belt is fully seated in all of the V-grooves and that it's centered in the flat idler pulley.

Belts always break at the most inconvenient times, so here's a guide to help you find a replacement locally that'll get you back up and running in the shortest possible time. We highly recommend Gates brand PoweRated® belts. They have a green-colored outer jacket and utilize a Kevlar® cord. You can usually find them at NAPA auto parts or other good auto parts stores or drive system supply houses. Do not use the "Blue jacket" belts: they're junk. Also do not use belts with polyester cords as they stretch like a rubber-band and won't last very long. Look for:

Hydro cable adjustments

From the forward and reverse hand control (on the RH handlebar), follow each cable down its length to the back of the machine (right behind the gas tank) noting which cable is connected to the forward control and which is reverse. Both cables are equipped with an inline adjuster for effectively changing the length of the outer jacket.

Holding both of the hex-shaped end fittings of the adjuster, turn the center barrel. You will notice that with rotation of the barrel, the end fittings will start to unscrew themselves making the adjuster longer. Continue this process in small increments, constantly checking the free-play of the hydro control handles.

It's important to note that as you adjust the cables, you're effecting the "stroke" of the hydro control at the transmission. Since the cables operate in a "closed loop" system, you should adjust both cables by nearly equal amounts. Over-adjusting just one of the cables will result in robbing the other cable of a portion of its travel (and a reduction of ground speed in that direction).

It's also important to maintain a small amount of free-play in the control handles. When the cables are properly adjusted, the hydro control handles should have approximately 1/16" of free motion. Over-tightening the cables will result in stiff action at the handles and reduced cable life.

Brake cable adjustment

The automatic brake/operator presence control on the LH handlebar also has an inline adjuster to compensate for stretch. The adjuster functions exactly like the hydro cable adjusters.

When adjusted properly, the "Red" handle should have approximately 1/8" of free-play at the tip.

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Securely support the front of the mower deck on a jack-stand or other sturdy device. Remove the belt cover, both deck drive belts and the blade(s) as described earlier.

Quicks have been assembled using two different methods to mount the spindles; self-tapping bolts (into the spindle housing) and thru-bolts with nuts and washers. Look underneath the spindle pulleys to determine with which type your machine is equipped. Using either one or two 1/2" open-end wrenches (depending upon your mounting type), remove the four bolts (or nuts and bolts) from the underside of the deck. Once the bolts are removed, the spindle can be lifted from the top of the deck housing.

Thoroughly clean the spindle mounting surface to insure that it sits level in the deck housing and then sit the new spindle assembly in from the top. Align the four holes in the spindle housing with those in the deck and insert one of the self-tapping bolts into a mounting hole. Thread a bolt (new bolts are supplied with each new spindle assembly) into one of the four holes in the spindle housing, making sure that the spindle housing pilot centers into the deck housing. Finger-tighten. Install the three remaining bolts into the spindle housing and then tighten all four in a crossed sequence ("X") pattern. The spindle mounting bolts should be tightened to a torque of 15 ft. lbs.

The new spindle assembly should be greased initially with 10-12 pumps of good quality high-pressure bearing grease. Re-assemble the parts removed earlier.

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To remove the front casters, securely support the front of the mower deck with the wheels off the ground. Using two 1-1/8" wrenches (or two big Crescent wrenches), remove the center bolt. The wheel assembly will then slide out of the bottom of the fork.

All Quick mowers use tubeless tires and as such can usually be repaired by "plugging". To find the air leak, inflate the tire and trickle water over the outside surface watching for bubbles. Once the hole is located, mark it with a crayon or a piece of chalk. A tire plugging "kit" can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Just follow the directions. Once the hole is sealed, re-inflate the tire to 25-30 PSI and reassemble it into the fork. It's a good practice to put a drop of Blue LocTite® on the wheel mounting nut and then tighten it to about 30 ft. lbs. of torque.



To remove the rear drive wheels, securely support the back of the power unit frame on a jack stand or other sturdy device with the wheels off the ground.

Using a medium-sized flat blade screwdriver, gently pry the "E" ring off the end of the wheel axle shaft and put it and the big flat washer in a safe place. Slide the wheel/tire assembly off the end of the axle, noting the position of the spacers and the axle drive key. Repair the tire as described earlier and then inflate to14-16 PSI air pressure.

Coat the entire length of the axle shaft with a light lubricant such as Fluid Film. Make sure one of the big flat washers is next to the transaxle housing and then slide the other wheel spacers and the axle drive key onto the axle as they were originally assembled. Align the keyway in the hub with the keyseat in the axle and then slide the wheel/tire assembly onto the axle. Reinstall the remaining flat washer and then (using a pair of slip-joint pliers) pop the "E" ring back into its groove on the end of the axle.

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Should the transaxle finally reach the end of its service life, it can be replaced (as a complete new unit) in less than an hour with common hand tools. Cost for replacement transaxles can be found in the Service Parts section of our website or by calling the Factory.



During normal operation, the oil in the Quick's hydrostatic transaxle will heat up. Just like the radiator expansion tank on your car, the hydrostatic transaxle has a tank to accommodate the expansion of the hot oil. The amount of oil in the tank will vary dependent upon the temperature of the transaxle. These are filled to the correct level at the Factory and no oil should be added.

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Grass contains acids that will attack the paint, plating, electrical connections and other important mechanical elements of your mower. Wash your mower thoroughly giving special attention to the areas underneath the cutting deck and under the deck drive belt cover. Be careful not to shoot water directly at the engine or electrical connections. Carefully blow the mower dry with compressed air or a backpack blower if one's available. Give special attention to drying the engine, electrical connections and any pivoting/moving components.

Turn the fuel tank shut-off valve to the "Off" position. Start the engine and let it run until it consumes all the fuel in the lines, filter and the float bowl of the carburetor. Following the directions on the bottle, treat the remaining fuel in the tank with a stabilizer such as Sta-Bil. If the mower is to be stored outside, cover the engine (once it cools) with a heavy-duty trash bag tied securely around the base.

Spray a generous coating of light lubricant such as Fluid Film on all control linkage pivot points, exposed portions of control cables and on the caster fork pins.

As explained in an earlier section, lubricate all grease fittings on the mower.

Check tire inflation; front casters 25-30 PSI, rear drive tires 14-16 PSI and spray with a rubber preservative such as Armor All.

Following the procedures outlined earlier, remove the battery (on electric start machines). Check the electrolyte level (marks on the side of the battery case) and top-off as needed with distilled water. Store the battery in a place where it won't be subjected to freezing temperatures. Connect a battery "tender" (a low-current battery charger) to the terminals to keep it electrically active. Do NOT set the battery on a concrete floor.

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• Reinstall battery as described earlier.
• Sharpen blades. Inspect deck drive belts.
• Check tire inflation.
• Change engine oil and install a new oil filter. Service air filter.
• Turn fuel tank valve to the "On" position and fill the tank with clean, fresh gas.

Always remember to Be Careful and have fun for another season of mowing with your Quick!

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• Understand service procedure before doing work. Keep the work area clean and dry.
• Engine exhaust fumes can cause sickness or death. ONLY start engine outdoors or in a well ventilated place.
• Keep cigarettes, sparks and open flames away from the fuel system and the battery.
• Always have an approved and fully charged fire extinguisher near your work area.
• Wear personal eye protection when using compressed air for cleaning purposes.
• Never lubricate, service or adjust mower while it is moving. Keep all safety devices in place and in working condition.
• Keep hardware tight.
• To prevent them from getting caught, keep hands, feet, clothing, jewelry and long hair away from any moving parts.
• Before servicing machine, disengage all power and stop the engine. Let engine cool.
• Securely support any machine elements that must be raised for service work.
• Keep all parts in good condition and properly installed. Fix damage immediately. Replace worn or broken parts. Remove any buildup of grease, oil or debris.
• Unauthorized modifications to the mower may impair its function and safety.

• Waste products such as used motor oil, gasoline and batteries can harm the environment, people and animals.
• Do NOT use beverage containers for waste fluids-someone may drink from them.
• See your local Recycling Center to learn how to recycle or get rid of waste products.
• A Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) provides specific details on chemical products including physical and health hazards, safety procedures and emergency response techniques. Contact Better Outdoor Products for the MSDS on chemical products used with your mower.

• Wear close fitting clothing and safety equipment appropriate for the job.
• Loud noise can cause impairment or loss of hearing. Wear a suitable protective device such as earplugs.
• Do not wear radio or music headphones while servicing the mower. Safe service requires your full attention.

• Entanglement in rotating pulleys, belts or other driveline parts can cause serious injury or death.
• Wear close fitting clothing.
• STOP the engine, remove the key and be sure rotating parts are stopped before getting near.

• Lead-acid batteries produce hydrogen gas and can explode if handled improperly.
• Keep cigarettes, sparks and flames away from the battery.
• Use a flashlight to check battery electrolyte level.
• Never check battery charge by placing a metal object across the posts. Use a voltmeter or a hydrometer.
• ALWAYS remove grounded (-) battery cable first and replace it last.
• Charge the battery in an area with good ventilation. DO NOT charge a frozen battery.
• Sulfuric acid in battery electrolyte is poisonous. It is strong enough to burn skin, eat holes in clothing and cause blindness of splashed into eyes.
• Wear personal eye protection and avoid spilling or dripping electrolyte.
• Flush eyes with water for 15-30 minutes if acid is splashed into eyes.
• If acid is swallowed, get medical attention immediately.

• Handle gasoline with extreme care. It is highly flammable.
• DO NOT refuel mower while you smoke, when machine is near an open flame or sparks or when engine is running. STOP engine.
• Fill fuel tank outdoors.
• Reduce the risk of fires by cleaning up oil, grease and dirt from the mower. Clean up spilled fuel immediately.
• Do not store mower with fuel in tank in a building where fumes may reach an open flame or spark.
• To reduce the risk of fire and explosion caused by static electrical discharge, use a plastic funnel when refueling the mower. Avoid using a funnel which has a metal screen or filter.
• Use only clean oil and fuel and clean approved containers and funnels.
• Store oil and fuel in an area protected from dust, moisture and other contamination.